Waves across the ocean

Abstract

The predictions of linear surface wave theory (S = 1/2A sq rt L and S = 1/2A squared P, where S is speed, A is a proportionality constant, L is wavelength, and P is period) are discussed in connection with the remote measurement of swell, i.e., long ocean waves. Particular attention is given to the Scripps experiments and to the APL experiment involving Seasat microwave remote sensing. It is noted that these measurements have yielded an exceptionally clear field verification of the theory, indicating the fidelity of ocean remote sensors.