Extreme waves in the Agulhas - A case study in wave-current interaction

Abstract

SIR data obtained in October 1984 off the South African coast are analyzed. The analysis of the derived ocean-wave slope spectra reveals the presence of two wave systems: a swell field from the SW of about 190 m wavelength and a swell out of the SE with a wavelength of about 220 m. An observed increase in wave energy along the northern edge of the Agulhas, caused by the propagation of the 190 m wave system opposite to that of the Agulhas Current, is studied by modeling the interaction of a wave with an opposite current. The role of refraction in the energy intensification is discussed. The effects of currrent curvature on the trajectory of the wave group and of meandering on a uniform wave field are investigated. A possible mechanism for the generation of extreme waves is proposed.