The impact of wave energy converter arrays on wave-induced forcing in the surf zone
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O'Dea, Annika↗
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Extremely Low Frequency (0.1 to 1.0 mHz) Surf Zone Currents
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Steve Elgar↗
The behavior of planetary wave 2 in preconditioned zonal flows
The response of linear planetary wave 2 to changes in the isentropic zonally symmetric distribution of potential vorticity (PV) is investigated numerically. Wave 2 is sensitive to the width and position of a region where the meridional derivative of PV is weak, denoted the 'surf zone', in the middle stratosphere. A narrow surf zone leads to an amplification of wave 2, and confines some of its Eliassen-Palm wave activity in high latitudes. For wider surf zones the wave activity is concentrated near the associated critical surface, and the amplitude of the wave decreases. Large changes in the wave amplitude and in the distribution of its activity are associated with the subtle changes in the zonal winds produced by modest modifications in the distribution of PV. Basic states that include regions of reversed meridional gradients of PV lead to wave overreflection and strong poleward focusing of wave activity. The amplitude of wave 2 is enhanced in the presence of negative gradients, with large responses occurring for eastward traveling waves.
Robinson, Walter A.↗
Large-scale Atmospheric Transport Processes
Continuing earlier work, we continued an investigation of the seasonal behavior of the edges of the stratospheric surf zone. These edges form a barrier between the rapidly mixed surf zone and the relatively isolated tropics. In collaboration with Dr Lynn Sparling at GSFC, we used a statistical analysis of HALOE and CLAES trace gas data from UARS to identify and locate these edges during each UARS observing period. We found that the edges on both sides of the equator are present all year (a fact that is important for conceptual models of stratospheric transport), though that on the summer side of the equator is much less sharp than the winter edge. The edges migrate seasonally into the summer hemisphere. Their location also shows influence of the QBO, together with the SAO at higher altitudes. Comparisons with effective diffusivities, and the edge locations, suggest that the edge is sustained by surf zone entrainment during winter, but by the residual circulation during summer.
Plumb, R. Alan↗
Quasi-horizontal transport and mixing in the Antarctic stratosphre
The quasi-horizontal transport and mixing properties of the Antarctic stratosphere are investigated with a simi-Lagrangian transport model and a 'contour advection' technique for the winter and spring of 1992 using analyzed winds from the United Kingdom Meteorological Office data assimiliation system. Transport calculations show that passive tracers are well mixed inside the polar vortex as well as in the midlatitude 'surf zone.' A the vortex edge, strong radial gradients in the tracer fields are well preserved, and their evolutions follow that of the potential vorticity until some time after the breakdown of the polar vortex. In the middle stratosphere there is little tracer exchange across the vortex edge in August and September. Some vortex air is eroded into the surf zone in filamentary form in October, and very strong exchange of air occurs between high and middle latitudes in November. In the lower stratosphere the vortex is not so isolated from the midlatitudes as in the middle stratosphere, and there is more mass exchange across the vortex edge. Calculations of the lengthening of material contours using the contour advection technique show that in the middle stratosphere, strong stirring (i.e., stretching and folding of material elements) occurs in the inner vortex, while the strongest stirring occurs in the midlatitude surf zone and the weakest occurs at the vortex edge. In the lower strtosphere, strong stirring occurs in the inner vortex. Stirring is moderate at the vortex edge and in the midlatitudes.
Chen, Ping↗
The area of the stratospheric polar vortex as a diagnostic for tracer transport on an isentropic surface
Daily isentropic distributions of Ertel potential vorticity, O3, water vapor, and HNO3 at the 850-K level of the Northern-Hemisphere stratosphere are determined on the basis of data from the Limb IR Monitor of the Stratosphere (Gille and Russell, 1984) on Nimbus 7 for the period October 25, 1978-April 2, 1979. The results are presented in graphs and maps and analyzed in detail. The surf-zone main-vortex structure identified by McIntyre and Palmer (1983 and 1984) is observed, superimposed on the seasonal patterns, with expansion of the surf zone and shrinking of the main vortex as the winter progresses. Irreversible mixing is found to be the dominant mechanism controlling the redistribution of all measured species except HNO3.
Butchart, N.↗
BOBr Raw Breaking Wave Data, Agate Beach, OR
Raw data from the BOBr (Buoy to Observe Breaking) wave measurement buoy. Data was recorded off the coast of Newport, OR at Agate Beach, in the surf zone.
16 TIDAL AND WAVE POWER↗
BOBr Processed Breaking Wave Data, Agate Beach, OR
This data was recorded by the BOBr (Buoy to Observe Breaking) off the coast of Newport, OR at Agate Beach in the surf zone. The data was recorded by a 9dof inertial measurement unit and consists of a timestamp, quaternion orientation, acceleration vector, rotation vector, and magnetic vector. The acceleration, rotation, and magnetic vectors have all been corrected back to a North East Down reference frame.
16 TIDAL AND WAVE POWER↗
SAR observations of coastal zone conditions
Applications of Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) technology to the observation of coastal zones phenomena are detailed. The conditions observed include gravity wave detection, surf zone location, surface currents, and long-period 'surf beats'. Algorithms have been developed and successfully tested that determine significant wave and current parameters from the sea surface backscatter of microwave energy. Doppler information from the SAR optical correlator allows a rough estimation of near shore surface flow velocities that has been found in agreement with both theory and in situ observations as well. Seasat SAR data of the Scotland and North Carolina coasts are considered, as well as the results of bathymetric updating of coastal area charts.
Meadows, G. A.↗
Investigation of scour adjacent to submerged geotextiles used for shore protection
This study presents the results of an experimental investigation of morphology change in the vicinity of submerged geotextiles placed within the surf zone. The study was motivated by the emerging use of submerged geotextile tubes for shore protection, shoreline stabilization, and surf amenity enhancement and the need to understand the mechanisms responsible for scour in the vicinity of these structures to preserve their structural integrity and reduce their structural failure. A movable bed physical model experiment was conducted at the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center’s Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility (LSTF) to develop empirical formulations to predict the mean scour depth adjacent to geotextiles under oblique wave-breaking conditions as a function of the maximum Keulegan-Carpenter, Shields, and Reynolds numbers. The observed scour in the vicinity of the geotextiles was also compared to a previous study of scour in the vicinity of submerged cylinders. Formulations developed by Cataño-Lopera and García (2006) relating the Keulegan-Carpenter, Shields, and Reynolds numbers to the scour depth were used to predict the scour observed during the LSTF experiment. Results show that the formulations of Cataño-Lopera and García (2006) over-predict the observed scour when calculated using the maximum Keulegan-Carpenter, Shields, and Reynolds numbers. New, modified expressions of Cataño-Lopera and García (2006) were developed for use in oblique random wave fields.
Gorton, Alicia M.↗
Radar signal return from near-shore surface and shallow subsurface features, Darien Province, Panama
The AN/APQ-97 radar imagery over eastern Panama is analyzed. The imagery was directed toward extraction of geologic and engineering data and the establishment of operational parameters. Subsequent investigations emphasized landform identification and vegetation distribution. The parameters affecting the observed return signal strength from such features are considered. Near-shore ocean phenomena were analyzed. Tidal zone features such as mud flats and reefs were identified in the near range, but were not detectable in the far range. Surface roughness dictated the nature of reflected energy (specular or diffuse). In surf zones, changes in wave train orientation relative to look direction, the slope of the surface, and the physical character of the wave must be considered. It is concluded that the establishment of the areal extent of the tidal flats, distributary channels, and reefs is practical only in the near to intermediate range under minimal low tide conditions.
Hanson, B. C.↗
Eulerian measurements of horizontal accelerations in shoaling gravity waves
Laboratory and field measurements of suspended sediment in the nearshore suggest that fluid accelerations are an important factor in sediment transport by oscillatory waves. Here, Eulerian accelerations of the cross-shore velocity are calculated from measurements of velocity obtained by an array of bottom-mounted electromagnetic flow meters spanning a natural surf zone. Large shoreward accelerations of brief duration are associated with the steep front faces of both near-breaking and breaking waves. Weaker offshore accelerations of longer duration occur during passage of the more gently sloped rear faces. The acceleration field is thus strongly skewed in the shoreward direction. Power spectra and bispectra indicate, as expected, that statistics of the acceleration field are significantly influenced by high-frequency motions but are rather insensitive to surf beat.
Elgar, Steve↗
Fate of Internal Waves on a Shallow Shelf
Internal waves strongly influence the physical and chemical environment of coastal ecosystems worldwide. We report novel observations from a distributed temperature sensing (DTS) system that tracked the transformation of internal waves from the shelf break to the surf zone over a narrow shelf slope region in the South China Sea. The spatially continuous view of temperature fields provides a perspective of physical processes commonly available only in laboratory settings or numerical models, including internal wave reflection off a natural slope, shoreward transport of dense fluid within trapped cores, and observations of internal rundown (near-bed, offshore-directed jets of water preceding a breaking internal wave). Analysis shows that the fate of internal waves on this shelf—whether transmitted into shallow waters or reflected back offshore—is mediated by local water column density structure and background currents set by the previous shoaling internal waves, highlighting the importance of wave-wave interactions in nearshore internal wave dynamics.
54 ENVIRONMENTAL SCIENCES↗
Evaluation of DUSTRAN Software System for Modeling Chloride Deposition on Steel Canisters
The degradation of steel by stress corrosion cracking (SCC) when exposed to atmospheric conditions for decades is a significant challenge in the fossil fuel and nuclear industries. SCC can occur when corrosive contaminants such as chlorides are deposited on a susceptible material in a tensile stress state. The Nuclear Regulatory Commission has identified chloride-induced SCC as a potential cause for concern in stainless steel used nuclear fuel (UNF) canisters in dry storage. The modeling of contaminant deposition is the first step in predictive multiscale modeling of SCC that is essential to develop mitigation strategies, prioritize inspection, and ensure the integrity and performance of canisters, pipelines, and structural materials. A multiscale simulation approach can be developed to determine the likelihood that a canister would undergo SCC in a certain period of time. This study investigates the potential of DUSTRAN, a dust dispersion modeling system developed by Pacific Northwest National Laboratory, to model the deposition of chloride contaminants from sea salt aerosols on a steel canister. Results from DUSTRAN simulations run with historical meteorological data were compared against measured chloride data at a coastal site in Maine. DUSTRAN’s CALPUFF model tended to simulate concentrations higher than those measured; however, the closest estimations were within the same order of magnitude as the measured values. The decrease in discrepancies between measured and simulated values as the level of abstraction in wind speed decreased suggest that the model is very sensitive to wind speed. However, the influence of other parameters such as the distinction between open-ocean and surf-zone sources needs to be explored further. Deposition values predicted by the DUSTRAN system were not in agreement with concentration values and suggest that the deposition calculations may not fully represent physical processes. Overall, results indicate that with parameter refinement, DUSTRAN has the potential to simulate atmospheric chloride dispersion on steel canisters.
12 MANAGEMENT OF RADIOACTIVE AND NON-RADIOACTIVE W↗
The Marineland Experiment - An overview
The Marineland Experiment was conducted in the Atlantic shelf region offshore of Marineland, Fla., during Dec. 1975. The objectives were: (1) to investigate the mechanisms of wave imaging by the synthetic aperture radar and (2) to investigate wave transformations at the western boundary of the Gulf Stream and across the continental shelf to the edge of the surf zone. Three aircraft, two equipped with synthetic aperture radars and one with a real aperture system, participated; three instrumented sites in 10-m, 20-m, and 60-m water depths were incorporated as surface truth. This review presents the mesoscale aspects of the Marineland Experiment and summarizes the salient results.
Shemdin, O. H.↗
Hydraulics and geology related to beach restoration in Lee County, Florida
The erosion problem on Captiva Island is discussed. It is due to a deficit in the sand budget of the littoral drift system; a system with losses due to attrition of the particles and mass losses into the lagoons, to offshore, and to lateral transport. The effect that reopening Blind Pass would have, and the placement of sediment retaining structures in the surf zone at the northern and southern limits of the Captiva beach system, wave examined. A geological approach was used to study the origin and dynamic changes that have occurred. Through hydraulic modeling, changes that will occur by reopening and stabilizing Blind Pass are predicted. It is concluded that if the island is to be stabilized, beach nourishment with proper amounts and particle size is a necessity and that jetties adequate to restrict lateral and offshore losses are essential. It is shown that the reopening of Blind Pass would have minimal effects on the passes to the north and south, and would improve the environmental conditions in the sound with no adverse effects on the beach system.
Winton, T.↗
Transport of atmospheric tracers by planetary waves during a winter stratospheric warming event - A three-dimensional model simulation
In a simple three-dimensional primitive equation model, a wave number 1 major stratospheric warming is simulated. With the aid of two idealized tracers it is shown that the transport during a major warming event is characterized by a small, well-organized tongue of subtropical air flowing around the displaced winter vortex into the polar cap and by a wide area with strong quasi-horizontal mixing (surf zone). The description of these dynamical processes requires a full three-dimensional space resolution.
Kouker, W.↗
Climatology of the stratospheric polar vortex and planetary wave breaking
The distribution of Ertel's potential vorticity (PV) on the 850 K isentropic surface is used to establish a climatology for the transient evolution of the planetary scale circulation in the Northern Hemisphere winter midstratosphere. PV distributions are computed from gridded NMC daily temperature and height maps for the 10 and 30 mb levels, and show that a very good approximation for 850 K PV can be derived from 10 mb heights and temperatures alone. It is assumed that reversals of the latitudinal gradient of PV, localized in longitude and latitude may be regarded as signatures of planetary wave breaking. Wave breaking identified by such signatures tends to occur mainly in the vicinity of the Aleutian anticyclone, with a secondary maximum over Europe. The area of the polar vortex, defined as the area enclosed by PV contours greater than a certain critical value, is strongly influenced by wave breaking. Erosion of the polar vortex due to transport and mixing of PV leads to a preconditioned state, when defined in terms of vortex area, that always occurs prior to major stratospheric warmings. During winters with little PV transport or mixing, the vortex area evolves rather uniformly in response to radiative forcing. During winters with major sudden warmings, the wave breaking signature as defined here first appears at low values of PV, then rapidly moves toward higher values as the vortex area is reduced and the 'surf-zone' structure becomes well defined.
Baldwin, Mark P.↗