Search NASA⌕ Search

SEARCH · Search NASA

Results for “surface gravity waves”

Search indexed NASA NTRS and DOE OSTI research on propulsion, heat transfer, battery materials and energy systems. Follow report and document links to the original sources.

Quote a phrase for an exact phrase match. Source license links do not imply unrestricted reuse.

At least 19 records

Mantaray: A Rust Package for Ray Tracing Ocean Surface Gravity Waves

Ocean surface gravity waves are an important component of air-sea interaction, influencing energy, momentum, and gas exchanges across the ocean-atmosphere interface. In specific applications such as refraction by ocean currents or bathymetry, ray tracing provides a computationally efficient way to gain insight into wave propagation. In this paper, we introduce Mantaray, an open-source software package implemented in Rust, with a Python interface, that solves the ray equations for ocean surface gravity waves. Mantaray is designed for performance, robustness, and ease of use. The package is modular to facilitate further development and can currently be applied to both idealized and realistic wave propagation problems (Fig. 1).

16 TIDAL AND WAVE POWER↗

Influence of drift flow turbulence on surface gravity wave propagation

The theory of surface gravity waves scattering at vortex flows in the ocean is developed in this paper. A scattering amplitude is found in the Born approximation as a function of Vorticity that appears very convenient for investigation of scattering at simple localized flows.

drift flow turbulence↗

Multi-wave interaction theory for wind-generated surface gravity waves

Consistently employing the assumption of localness of wave-wave interactions in the wavenumber space, the Kolmogorov treatment of the energy cascade is applied to the case of wind-generated surface gravity waves. The effective number v of resonantly interacting wave harmonics is not limited to four but is found as a solution of a coupled system of equations expressing: (i) the dependence of the spectrum shape on the degree of the wave nonlinearity, and (ii) the continuity of the wave action flux through the spectrum given a continuous positive input from wind. The latter is specified in a Miles-type fashion, and a simple scaling relationship based on the concept of the turnover time is derived in place of the kinetic equation. The mathematical problem is reduced to an ordinary differential equation of first order. The exponent in the 'power law' for the spectral density of the wave potential energy and the effective number of resonantly interacting wave harmonics are found as functions of the wave frequency and of external factors of wind-wave interaction. The solution is close to the Zakharov-Filonenko spectrum at low frequencies and low wind input while approaching the Phillips spectrum at high frequencies and sufficiently high wind.

Glazman, Roman E.↗

Solitary waves in the resonant phenomenon between a surface gravity wave packet and an internal gravity wave

A two-layer inviscid incompressible fluid system of intermediate depth is considered. A multiple-scales perturbation technique is applied to the basic equations and boundary conditions for a two-layer fluid system to derive a system of weakly nonlinear partial integrodifferential equations governing the resonant interaction between a surface gravity wave packet and an internal gravity wave at an intermediate depth, providing a bridge between the existing shallow and deep fluid theories. The convolution integral term in these equations accounts for the dispersion in the lower-layer fluid. An iterative fast Fourier transform scheme is developed to find solitary wave solutions to this system of equations. The overtaking collision of two pairs of solitary waves, simulated using a spectral method, is found to be inelastic. It is found that the amplitude of the solitary waves changes slightly after the collision. The phase shifts these solitary waves undergo was calculated numerically.

Sepulveda, Nicasio↗

Model-data comparisons of moments of nonbreaking shoaling surface gravity waves

The predictions of linear and nonlinear (Boussinesq) shoaling wave models for nonbreaking unidirectional surface gravity waves are compared to field observations, with particular emphasis on quantities that may be important for cross-shore sediment transport. The extensive data sets were obtained on two natural beaches, span water depths between 1 and 10 m, and include incident wave power spectra with narrow, broad, and bimodal shapes. Significant wave heights varied between approximately 30 and 100 cm, and peak periods between approximately 8 and 18 s. The evolution of total variances of sea surface elevation, cross-shore velocity, and horizontal acceleration is modeled at least qualitatively well by both linear and nonlinear theories. Only the nonlinear theory predicts the increasingly asymmetric sea surface elevations and horizontal velocities (pitched-forward wave shapes) and the weaker variation of skewness (difference between crest and trough profiles) which are observed to occur during shoaling. The nonlinear theory also models qualitatively well the large skewed accelerations which occur during the passage of asymmetric waves.

Elgar, Steve↗

On the development of packets of surface gravity waves moving over an uneven bottom

The object of study is the evolution of packets of gravity waves moving over variable depth, in particular, the transformation of packets moving into a shelf of increased or decreased depth. The variable-coefficient nonlinear Schroedinger equation with inhomogeneous term is derived for gravity waves moving over an uneven bottom. A solution for an envelope-hole soliton moving over variable depth is obtained when the amplitude-length ratio of the soliton is small. For the shelf problem, it is shown that the first soliton on the shelf will be the one with smallest depression, and the last will have greatest depression. This is in contrast to Korteweg-de Vries soliton fission.

Djordjevic, V. D.↗

Surface gravity waves at equilibrium with a steady wind

Observations of wave fields' spatial evolution and of gravity wave spectra S(sub omega) are analyzed on the basis of the data reported by several research groups as well as on a 2-year data set of wind and wave measurements by stationary National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration buoys near the Hawaiian Islands. We seek to clarify the role of the wave energy advection (with the wave group velocity) in the overall energy balance. This advective transfer appears to be no less important than the local (breaking wave induced) dissipation as a factor of wind-wave equilibrium. The advection is found to manifest itself in the shape of wave spectra by reducing the rate at which the spectra density of the wave energy, S(sub omega approximately omega (exp -p), falls off as the frequency increases away from the spectra peak. This and other conclusions are derived by comparing the field observations with theoretical predictions of the weak turbulence theory for a spatially inhomogeneous, statistically stationary, wave field. The observations also indicate that the typical wave age xi = C(sub 0)/U in the open ocean is much greater than the limiting value 1.2 attributed to the 'fully developed sea.' Although the observed spectra can be approximated by a power law with a single 'effective' exponent, this apparent exponent, p, is found to depend on the wave age. At high xi and at frequencies below the generation range, -p tends to -3 rather than the value of -11/3 predicted by the Zakharov-Zaslavskii theory. This deviation is interpreted as pointing to a nonconservative nature of the inverse cascade, the latter including a leakage of energy to low-wavenumber modes. Dependence of the overall effective exponent on xi is shown to be responsible for variation in the coefficients b, B, c, C appearing in empirical fetch laws, such as xi = C bar-x (exp c) and e = B bar-x (exp B), where bar-x and e are the dimensionless fetch and wave energy, respectively.

Glazman, Roman E.↗

Observations of nonlinear interactions in directionally spread shoaling surface gravity waves

Shoaling wave fields generated in laboratory experiments were analyzed to determine the sensitivity of nonlinear interactions to the directional distributions of incident waves. Peaks in the directional spectra observed in shallow water were consistent with near resonating, quadratic interactions between two primary waves transferring energy to a third wave with the sum frequency and vector sum wavenumber of the primary waves. Directionally colinear waves forced a higher-frequency wave propagating in the same direction as the primary waves, while directionally spread (i.e., noncolinear) primary waves forced a higher-frequency wave that propagated in a direction between those of the interacting primary waves. Deepwater wave fields with similar frequency spectra but different directional spectra evolved to different shallow-water directional spectra, yet their shallow-water frequency spectra were remarkably similar. This result suggests that the shape of the directional spectrum of the incident wave field has only a small effect on the magnitudes of nonlinear energy transfer during shoaling. The principal effect of directionality in the incident wave field is on the directions, not the amplitudes, of the nonlinearly generated waves. The laboratory data demonstrate clearly the importance of triad interactions between noncolinear and colinear shoaling waves.

Elgar, Steve↗

High-resolution lithospheric structure of continental China from joint inversion of surface wave and gravity data

The lithospheric structure of continental China has been previously determined by seismic travel time tomography, surface wave tomography, and joint inversion of body wave and surface wave data. However, due to the inherent limitations of seismic data, the lithospheric structure of continental China is still not well resolved in the shallow part and in some regions where the station coverage is relatively sparse. In this study, we aim at improving the lithospheric structure by joint inversion of seismic surface wave data and satellite gravity data to take advantage of the uniform distribution and complementary strength of the gravity data. Here, the empirical relationship between velocity and density is used as a bridge for joint inversion of surface wave and gravity data. The joint inversion shear-wave velocity Vs (density) model, named as USTClitho1.0g, can fit both surface wave and gravity data well. This high-resolution Vs model can better fit the active airgun source seismic arrival times and better delineate some features in continental China, such as the velocity contrast across the north–south gravity lineament (NSGL), the lithosphere thinning in eastern China, the crustal footprint of the Hainan mantle plume, the likely magma chamber beneath volcanos in northeast China, the middle-lower crust low velocity layer beneath the Tibetan plateau, and the tearing of subducted Indian mantle lithosphere. Our joint inversion Vs model can provide a reference model for geosciences in continental China and surrounding areas.

58 GEOSCIENCES↗

Seasat-A - A product of user interests

The paper describes how user requirements were integrated into the development of the Seasat-A program and shows how user requirements influenced sensor selection, mission planning, satellite systems design, and the end-to-end data system. User requirements included the measurement of ocean topography, surface winds, gravity waves, surface temperature, sea ice, salinity, and surface pressure. Particular attention is paid to the selection of sensors: compressed pulse radar altimeter, synthetic aperture imaging radar, microwave wind scatterometer, visible/infrared radiometer, and multispectral microwave radiometer.

Mccandless, S. W., Jr.↗

Air-sea interaction with SSM/I and altimeter

A number of important developments in satellite remote sensing techniques have occurred recently which offer the possibility of studying over vast areas of the ocean the temporally evolving energy exchange between the ocean and the atmosphere. Commencing in spring of 1985, passive and active microwave sensors that can provide valuable data for scientific utilization will start to become operational on Department of Defense (DOD) missions. The passive microwave radiometer can be used to estimate surface wind speed, total air column humidity, and rain rate. The active radar, or altimeter, senses surface gravity wave height and surface wind speed.

Source record↗

Direct Measurement of Wave Kernels in Time-Distance Helioseismology

Solar f-mode waves are surface-gravity waves which propagate horizontally in a thin layer near the photosphere with a dispersion relation approximately that of deep water waves. At the power maximum near 3 mHz, the wavelength of 5 Mm is large enough for various wave scattering properties to be observable. Gizon and Birch (2002,ApJ,571,966)h ave calculated kernels, in the Born approximation, for the sensitivity of wave travel times to local changes in damping rate and source strength. In this work, using isolated small magnetic features as approximate point-sourc'e scatterers, such a kernel has been measured. The observed kernel contains similar features to a theoretical damping kernel but not for a source kernel. A full understanding of the effect of small magnetic features on the waves will require more detailed modeling.

Duvall, T. L., Jr.↗

A Cascade Model of Wave Turbulence with Applications to Surface Gravity and Capillary Waves

A heuristic approach to the derivation of power spectra of wave motion is described and applied to capillary waves. The case of gravity waves studied earlier is briefly reviewed. In contract to the previous studies, the nonlinearity of the wave motion is not required to be small, and the mean number of resonantly interacting wave harmonics is not limited to a smallest possible number (which is 4 for gravity waves on a deep fluid and 3 for capillary waves). The main external parameter of the problem is the input flux Q of the wave energy related to the mean wind velocity. Depending on its value, wave spectra take various forms---from that corresponding to the weak-turbulence limit to that corresponding to the saturated (Phillips') wave spectra...

Glazman, Roman E.↗

Porting the WAVEWATCH III (v6.07) wave action source terms to GPU

Abstract. Surface gravity waves play a critical role in several processes, including mixing, coastal inundation, and surface fluxes. Despite the growing literature on the importance of ocean surface waves, wind–wave processes have traditionally been excluded from Earth system models (ESMs) due to the high computational costs of running spectral wave models. The development of the Next Generation Ocean Model for the DOE’s (Department of Energy) E3SM (Energy Exascale Earth System Model) Project partly focuses on the inclusion of a wave model, WAVEWATCH III (WW3), into E3SM. WW3, which was originally developed for operational wave forecasting, needs to be computationally less expensive before it can be integrated into ESMs. To accomplish this, we take advantage of heterogeneous architectures at DOE leadership computing facilities and the increasing computing power of general-purpose graphics processing units (GPUs). This paper identifies the wave action source terms, W3SRCEMD, as the most computationally intensive module in WW3 and then accelerates them via GPU. Our experiments on two computing platforms, Kodiak (P100 GPU and Intel(R) Xeon(R) central processing unit, CPU, E5-2695 v4) and Summit (V100 GPU and IBM POWER9 CPU) show respective average speedups of 2× and 4× when mapping one Message Passing Interface (MPI) per GPU. An average speedup of 1.4× was achieved using all 42 CPU cores and 6 GPUs on a Summit node (with 7 MPI ranks per GPU). However, the GPU speedup over the 42 CPU cores remains relatively unchanged (∼ 1.3×) even when using 4 MPI ranks per GPU (24 ranks in total) and 3 MPI ranks per GPU (18 ranks in total). This corresponds to a 35 %–40 % decrease in both simulation time and usage of resources. Due to too many local scalars and arrays in the W3SRCEMD subroutine and the huge WW3 memory requirement, GPU performance is currently limited by the data transfer bandwidth between the CPU and the GPU. Ideally, OpenACC routine directives could be used to further improve performance. However, W3SRCEMD would require significant code refactoring to make this possible. We also discuss how the trade-off between the occupancy, register, and latency affects the GPU performance of WW3.

58 GEOSCIENCES↗

Seasat synthetic aperture radar observations of wave-current and wave-topographic interactions

This study investigated the capability of a spaceborne, imaging radar system to detect subtle changes in the propagation characteristics of ocean wave systems. Specifically, an evolving surface gravity wave system emanating from Hurricane Ella and propagating toward Cape Hatteras, NC, formed the basis of this investigation. This wave system was successfully imaged by the Seasat synthetic aperture radar (SAR) during revolution 974 on September 3, 1978. Estimates of the dominant wavelength and direction of the ocean waves were derived from the SAR data by using optical Fourier transforms. Environmental data of the test area, which included the surface velocity vector within the Gulf Stream, the location of Hurricane Ella, and local bathymetric information, were used in conjunction with the SAR data to form the basis of this comparative study. Favorable agreement was found between wave rays calculated by utilizing theoretical wave-current and wave-topographic interactions and SAR observed dominant wavelength and direction changes across the Gulf Stream and continental shelf.

Meadows, G. A.↗

Interpretation of phase velocity measurements of wind-generated surface waves

Differences in experimental results for surface gravity wave phase speeds obtained by cross spectra and slope-height spectra are compared. It is shown that, for a simple two-dimensional model containing both dispersive and non-dispersive waves, the observed differences can be explained readily. The slope-height technique measures a weighted average of the wavenumber squared; for frequencies sufficiently large compared with the dominant frequency, the computed phase-speed variation with frequency is representative of the wave having the larger wavenumber - the dispersive wave. For the cross-spectral method, it is shown that the small-probe-separation assumption usually employed is not valid for frequencies much larger than the dominant frequency, except at the singular point where both waves have exactly equal spectral densities and the phase function represents an average of the two modes. For all other cases, the phase function approaches that of the wave having the larger spectral density, and essentially ignores the presence of the other wave, even if both modes are relatively close in their contributions to the total spectral density.

Dudis, J. J.↗