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At least 19 records

Validation and assimilation of Seasat altimeter wave heights using the WAM wave model

The third-generation wave model, WAM, is presently used to investigate the mutual consistency of the Seasat global data sets of scatterometer winds and altimeter wave heights for the complete Seasat period. While modeled and observed wave heights are in reasonable agreement on the global average, regional differences can be great and on occasion exceed 40 percent. These errors are primarily attributable to forcing wind field deficiencies; the friction velocities of the Goddard Laboratory for Atmospheres are found to be significantly underestimated in the high-wind belt of the Southern Hemisphere. A wave data assimilation scheme is presented in which the wave field is updated without change to the forcing wind field.

Bauer, Eva↗

ROWS estimates of wave height, wind speed, and directional wave spectra for SIR-B underflights off Chile, October 11 and 12, 1984

An account is given of the successful operation of the Goddard Ku-band Radar Ocean Wave Spectrometer (ROWS) on four out of five of the NASA Wallops' P-3 underflights of the Shuttle Imaging Radar-B (SIR-B) off the coast of southern Chile during the period of October 7-12, 1984. ROWS provided surface wind speed, wave height, and directional wave height spectrum estimates from the instrument's nadir altimeter mode and off-nadir spectrometer mode. ROWS estimates of the directional spectra of 300-400-m wavelength swell-dominated 3-5 m seas on October 11 and 12 are presented and compared to SCR (Surface Contour Radar), SIR-B, and Navy GSOWM spectra. Good agreement is found with SCR height spectra for the 12th (when the SCR was operable). Also, surprisingly good agreement is found between ROWS slope spectra and SIR-B image spectra for both the 11th and 12th for both swell and local wind-sea components. ROWS altimeter mode estimates of maximum winds of about 10 m/s on the 11th and 12th are seen to be consistent with the ROWS spectrometer mode observed local wind-sea peak frequencies of about 0.12-0.14 Hz.

Jackson, F. C.↗

Correlation techniques and measurements of wave-height statistics

Statistical measurements of wave height fluctuations have been made in a wind wave tank. The power spectral density function of temporal wave height fluctuations evidenced second-harmonic components and an f to the minus 5th power law decay beyond the second harmonic. The observations of second harmonic effects agreed very well with a theoretical prediction. From the wave statistics, surface drift currents were inferred and compared to experimental measurements with satisfactory agreement. Measurements were made of the two dimensional correlation coefficient at 15 deg increments in angle with respect to the wind vector. An estimate of the two-dimensional spatial power spectral density function was also made.

Guthart, H.↗

Dual frequency scatterometer measurement of ocean wave height

A technique for remotely measuring wave height averaged over an area of the sea surface was developed and verified with a series of aircraft flight experiments. The measurement concept involves the cross correlation of the amplitude fluctuations of two monochromatic reflected signals with variable frequency separation. The signal reflected by the randomly distributed specular points on the surface is observed in the backscatter direction at nadir incidence angle. The measured correlation coefficient is equal to the square of the magnitude of the characteristic function of the specular point height from which RMS wave height can be determined. The flight scatterometer operates at 13.9 GHz and 13.9 - delta f GHz with a maximum delta f of 40 MHz. Measurements were conducted for low and moderate sea states at altitudes of 2, 5, and 10 thousand feet. The experimental results agree with the predicted decorrelation with frequency separation and with off-nadir incidence angle.

Johnson, J. W.↗

A brief summary of verification results for the spectral ocean wave model /SOWM/ by means of wave height measurements obtained by Geos 3

Significant wave heights calculated using a computer-based spectral ocean wave model (Pierson et al., 1966; Salfi, 1974; Lazanoff and Stevenson, 1975) from meteorological data have been compared with significant wave heights measured by Geos 3 for 44 orbit segments obtained during 1975 and 1976. The model specifications were found to be biased too low. Discrepancies between calculated and measured wave heights are also attributable to the poor specifications of the winds over the northern hemisphere oceans.

Pierson, W. J.↗

Optimization of satellite altimeter and wave height measurements

Two techniques for simultaneously estimating altitude, ocean wave height, and signal-to-noise ratio from the GEOS-C satellite altimeter data are described. One technique was based on maximum likelihood estimation, MLE, and the other on minimum mean square error estimation, MMSE. Performance was determined by comparing the variance and bias of each technique with the variance and bias of the smoothed output from the Geos altimeter tracker. Ocean wave height tracking performance for the MLE and MMSE algorithms was measured by comparing the variance and bias of the wave height estimates with that of the expression for the return waveform obtained by a fit to the average output of the 16 waveform sampling gates.

Dooley, R. P.↗

The dependence of wind stress on wave height and wind speed

Three near-neutral boundary layer data sets were investigated with the aim of finding a dependence of wind stress on both wind speed and significant wave height. The data set most representative of open-ocean wave height, wind speed, and momentum flux conditions, was selected and analyzed by means of the least-squares method to produce a new parameterization for the wind stress as a function of both wind speed and significant wave height. This study shows that the wind stress, and consequently the drag coefficient, decreases with increasing wave height for a fixed wind speed. The study also shows that the curvature of the wind profile decreases with increasing wave height and that the C(DN) = A + BU-bar(10) form for the drag coefficient parameterization is inadequate. A drag coefficient that applies to both smooth and rough flows is proposed. These results are more applicable for open-ocean deep-water conditions and less applicable for sheltered, closed, shallow water sites.

Blake, Reginald A.↗

Verification results for the Spectral Ocean Wave Model (SOWM) by means of significant wave height measurements made by the GEOS-3 spacecraft

Significant wave heights estimated from the shape of the return pulse wave form of the altimeter on GEOS-3 for forty-four orbit segments obtained during 1975 and 1976 are compared with the significant wave heights specified by the spectral ocean wave model (SOWM), which is the presently operational numerical wave forecasting model at the Fleet Numerical Weather Central. Except for a number of orbit segments with poor agreement and larger errors, the SOWM specifications tended to be biased from 0.5 to 1.0 meters too low and to have RMS errors of 1.0 to 1.4 meters. The much fewer larger errors can be attributed to poor wind data for some parts of the Northern Hemisphere oceans. The bias can be attributed to the somewhat too light winds used to generate the waves in the model. Other sources of error are identified in the equatorial and trade wind areas.

Pierson, W. J.↗

Two frequency radar interferometry applied to the measurement of ocean wave height.

Description of a technique for measuring the rms wave height averaged over an area of the sea that is much greater than any horizontal scale of the surface waves. The measurement method involves a nadir looking radar that transmits and receives two continuous monochromatic signals simultaneously. Signal processing at the receiver requires the computation of a correlation function which is shown to depend only on the statistical rms surface elevation of specular points and not on the temporal or spatial frequency spectrum of the wave height or slope. Laboratory measurements have been conducted on wind driven waves, and the measured correlation function compares favorably with the underlying theory.

Weissman, D. E.↗

Radar pulse shape versus ocean wave height

The radar height distribution of the vertical ocean surface structure was measured with a 1 ns radar system from a tower platform. It is shown that the reflecting properties of the ocean biases the mean sea level by about 5% of the significant wave height, and that the radar measured water wave height is reduced by about 6% of the significant wave height. For SWH up to 2 m, it can be assumed that the shape of the distribution is normal and that the mean sea level and water wave height of the observed ocean surface can be directly obtained from the convolved pulse, that is obtained from a high flying altimeter, with accuracies of a few centimeters. Measurements of higher sea states and utilization of an aircraft platform for pulse width limited observations are needed to confirm these preliminary results.

Shapiro, A.↗

On the hysteresis of the sea surface and its applicability to wave height predictions

Because of the low dissipation rate of wave energy on the ocean's surface, the wave height at some location and time must be dependent upon wind fields in existence there at previous times and upon swell propagated there from other regions. To study these relationships, significant wave height (SWH) measurements from the Geos-3 radar altimeter are used in conjunction with anemometer windspeed measurements from weather ships, L, C, and R. During the passage of large cyclonic disturbances near the fixed locations of these vessels in the North Atlantic in February 1976, distinct hysteresis profiles that characterize the sea's memory during generation and dissipation conditions are observed. Examples are given that demonstrate the influences of cyclone intensity, movement, velocity, and shape on the configuration of these profiles.

Parsons, C. L.↗

Global satellite measurements of water vapour, wind speed and wave height

The results of global measurements of atmospheric water vapor by the Seasat Scanning Multichannel Microwave Radiometer and wave height and wind speed by the Seasat altimeter (ALT) are reported. The 13.5 GHz ALT has a 3.125 ns pulsewidth and 1022 Hz repetition rate, and measures surface height to a resolution exceeding 10 cm celative to a reference ellipsoid. Full ALT data comprise 135 km equatorial groundtracks, with about a 50 cm difference of sea wave height compared to buoy reference measurements, and windspeed accuracy to within 0.25-1.58 m/sec up to 20 m/sec. Highest water vapor concentrations were observed in the tropics and the lowest at high latitudes. Wind speeds were highest for the north-east and south-east tradewinds in both the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. Average wave height is small in the summer North Hemisphere and the largest waves are in the winter Southern ocean, and lowest in western Atlantic and Pacific ocean areas where winds are lightest.

Chelton, D. B.↗

Assessing and mapping extreme wave height along the Gulf of Mexico coast

The effect of extreme waves on the coastal community includes inundation, loss of habitats, increasing shoreline erosion, and increasing risks to coastal infrastructures (e.g., ports, breakwaters, oil and gas platforms), important for supporting coastal resilience. The coastal communities along the US Gulf of Mexico are very low-lying, which makes the region particularly vulnerable to impacts of extreme waves generated by storm events. We propose assessing and mapping the risks from extreme waves for the Gulf of Mexico coast to support coastal resiliency planning. The risks will be assessed by computing n-year recurring wave height (e.g., 1, 5, 50, 100-year) using 32-year wave hindcast data and various extreme value analysis techniques including Peak- Over-Threshold and Annual Maxima method. The characteristics of the extreme waves, e.g., relations between the mean and extreme wave climates, directions associated with extreme waves, will be investigated. Hazard maps associated with extreme wave heights at different return periods will be generated to help planners identify potential risks and envision places that are less susceptible to future storm damage.

54 ENVIRONMENTAL SCIENCES↗

Predicting Seafloor Seismic Noise from Sea Surface Wave Heights and Vice Versa

Seismic hazard monitoring and global seismic tomography efforts are improved by recording seismic signals close to sources and at a variety of azimuths surrounding the source. While seismic networks have been deployed at many locations on land, seafloor stations are still sparse. Inclusion of ocean-based data would greatly improve the global coverage of seismic networks. However, the use of seafloor seismic data to complement land-based detection and characterization of events is complicated by the fact that ambient noise on the seafloor is in general much higher than noise levels on land. This noise is driven primarily by sea surface waves and tides. In this project, I define an empirical relationship between wave height and seafloor seismic displacement, and tie this relationship to the microseism noise theory of Longuet-Higgins and Ursell (1948). I find that while there appears to be a linear relationship between wave height and seismic displacement, wave height values can only be used with low confidence to predict seismic displacement and vice versa, and furthermore, factors other than wave height are significant in determining the level of seismic noise at a particular site.

58 GEOSCIENCES↗

Radar satellite altimetry and ocean wave height estimation

The design of a radar satellite altimeter having a plus or minus 10 cm topographic resolution at 20 meter (peak-to-trough) ocean wave heights is described. In addition to altimetry, the resulting design also provides a measurement of significant wave height over the range of 1.0 to 20 meters to within plus or minus 10%. A full deramp pulse compression technique followed by an analog filter bank to separate individual range returns is used in the radar transmitter/receiver design to reduce the A/D converter bandwidth from a rather impractical 330 MHz to less than 1 MHz. The altimeter design utilizes an onboard maximum likelihood estimate (MLE) processor to achieve the plus or minus 10 cm topographic resolution. It is shown that an MLE processor provides simultaneous optimum (minimum variance) estimates of satellite altitude, ocean wave height and electromagnetic ocean surface reflectivity.

Dooley, R. P.↗

Comparison of TOPEX/POSEIDON sigma(sub 0) and significant wave height distributions to Geosat

Monthly Ku band sigma(sub 0) and significant wave height (SWH) histograms from the NASA altimeter on the TOPEX/POSEIDON satellite are preseneted for January through June 1993 for three latitude bands between +/- 60 degrees. The data are compared to distributions from the Geosat mission for the same months in 1987-1989. Generally, the distributions agree quite well, although there are some seasonal/hemispherical differences. The sigma(sub 0) comparison reveals an overall bias between the two altimeters with the TOPEX sigma(sub 0) higher by about 0.7 dB, which is consistent with algorithm improvements for TOPEX. The SWH distributions show strong hemispherical/seasonal changes. The seasonal/hemispherical differences between TOPEX and Geosat are consistent for SWH and sigma(sub 0). The joint distribution of sigma(sub 0) and SWH is extremely stable friom month to month. The typical SWH is independent of sigma(sub 0) for sigma(sub 0) greater than 11.3 dB. The minimum SWH grows exponentially with wind speed. This joint distribution may be useful for understanding electromagnetic bias in altimeter measurements. Finally, altimeter data are compared to buoy values from 21 overflights of the NASA verification site near Pt. Conception, California. Wave heights agree well with an root mean square (RMS) difference of only 0.2 m. Altimeter sigma(sub 0) values are compared to buoy wind speeds. The results are consistent with the -0.7 dB sigma(sub 0) offset from the histogram comparisons.

Callahan, Philip S.↗

Determination of ocean wave heights from synthetic aperture radar imagery

A calculation is presented for the cross-correlation of the radar images obtained by processing the same signal data over different portions of the chirp spectrum bandwidth as a function of the center frequency spacings for these portions. This is shown to be proportional to the square of the product of the characteristic function for ocean wave heights and the pupil function describing the chirp spectrum bandwidth used in the processing. Measurements of this function for ocean wave imagery over the coast of Alaska, the North Atlantic, and Monterey Bay, California, and correlation with the significant wave heights reported from ground truth data indicate that the synthetic aperture radar instrument can be used for providing wave height information in addition to the ocean wave imagery.

Jain, A.↗

Measurement of ocean wave heights using the Geos 3 altimeter

Radar altimeter signals transmitted from the low-orbiting satellite Geos 3 were analyzed for two selected orbits over high seas associated with hurricane 'Caroline' in the Gulf of Mexico and a North Atlantic storm. The measured values of significant wave height are in reasonable agreement with surface measurements, provided that the altimeter data are properly edited. The internal consistency of estimated wave heights for the North Atlantic storm, a standard deviation of 0.6 m or less, and the good agreement with surface truth lend credence to the method. A statistical analysis of the pulse slope variation gives estimated values of significant wave height within + or - 1 m of the true values 75% of the time for spatial averaging over 70 km.

Rufenach, C. L.↗